Gradara with its castle is a perfectly preserved medieval village. Its name is associated with one of the most celebrated adulterous history: love between Paolo Malatesta and Francesca da Polenta.
Poets, writers and musicians have extolled for centuries the history of these two unlucky lovers. But who made them famous was Dante Alighieri in Divine Comedy. In the first book of this masterpiece, Dante and Virgil meet Francesca and her lover Paolo in the second circle of hell, reserved for the lustful. Here, the couple is trapped in an eternal whirlwind, doomed to be forever swept through the air just as they allowed themselves to be swept away by their passions. Dante calls out to the lovers, who are compelled to briefly pause before him, and he speaks with Francesca. Below an extract:
O living creature gracious and benignant,
Who visiting goest through the purple air
Us, who have stained the world incarnadine,If were the King of the Universe our friend,
We would pray unto him to give thee peace,
Since thou hast pity on our woe perverse.Of what it pleases thee to hear and speak,
That will we hear, and we will speak to you,
While silent is the wind, as it is now.Sitteth the city, wherein I was born,
Upon the sea-shore where the Po descends
To rest in peace with all his retinue.Love, that on gentle heart doth swiftly seize,
Seized this man for the person beautiful
That was ta’en from me, and still the mode offends me.Love, that exempts no one beloved from loving,
Seized me with pleasure of this man so strongly,
That, as thou seest, it doth not yet desert me;Love has conducted us unto one death;
Caina waiteth him who quenched our life!”
These words were borne along from them to us.
The most famous noble families: Malatesta, Montefeltro, Della Rovere, Borgia and Medicis owned this castle. But at the end of the 19th century it was practically ruined. A rich family (Zavettoni) did renovate. On the death of the last descendant of this noble family, the castle passed to the Italian State which opened it to the public.
Inside the castle, you can visit the main floor. The rooms are all furnished with “recent” furniture (19th century). The original furnishings are in fact lost (brought in private residence or destroyed).
The most striking room is obviously the room of Paolo and Francesca. The tourist is undoubtedly brought to relive the fact. The canopy bed, the lectern where lovers have read the love story of Lancelot, the elegant dress and the trapdoor where Paul tried to escape before he was killed by his brother (or where his brother Gianciotto entered surprising them … I do not know …). Everything bring you to this tragedy.
Other interesting rooms are the bathroom of Lucrezia Borgia, the council room and the red room.
In the cellars of the tower there is also the torture room … curious is the epitaph on the window of this macabre space. In fact, the exterior window bears the inscription in Latin: “improbitatis antidotum”. Torture and prison as a cure of the evil …
The last time I visited the castle (a month ago), you could not climb the castle main tower. But some years ago it was possible. From the top of the tower there is a wonderful view of the hills and sea of this beautiful part of Italy between Emilia Romagna and Marche.
After visiting the castle you can go and visit the St. John the Baptist Church, located near the castle exit. Inside there is a special crucifix. The crucifix sculpted by Friar Innocent in 1936, showing three different faces depending on the point of view from which you admire it.
Finally, enjoy walking on the walls walkway, used in the Middle Ages by the garrisons of the castle.
In the village there are several taverns to eat typical foods. It ‘s true that many are “tourist” and are not the best in the area. But among these, I would like to suggest Mastin Vecchio restaurant. The food is good and the location is very nice, (both the outdoor area in the inner rooms).
Gradara is beautiful in all seasons, but recommend you to see it in May or September, when there are fewer tourists and the weather allows you to enjoy a nice walk outdoors.
Useful information:
Nearest Airports:
- International Airport of Bologna – BLQ (distance 144 km)
- International Airport of Rimini – RMI (distance 27 km)
Low Cost Airlines operating on Bologna Airport: Ryan, Easyjet, Wizzair, Airberlin, Vueling, Jetairfly.com, Albawings, Eurowings
Low Cost Airlines operating on Rimini Airport: Nord Wind, Albawings, Air Baltic
